Recently, I watched a documentary on the historical and cultural significance of Naengmyeon, or Korean cold noodles. Cold Noodles are a common dish found through East Asia, and recipes have been found dated back to the Joseon Era (1392-1897). The base of the dish, buckwheat and starch noodles in a cool beef broth, is quite bland by itself, but different garnishes are added depending on the season, region and personal taste. The two main varieties of naengmyeon are mul naengmyeon, made with meat broth, and bibim naengmyeon, served with a spicy gochujang dressing. Traditionally, it was made using a giant wooden noodle press, and often required two or more people to use. Even after automatic noodle presses were invented out of metal, it was not uncommon to see the traditional machinery being used. Yet for a food that takes so much effort to make, people described it as having such little flavor, and some people calling it “grandpa food”. One phrase I found funny was describing the noodles as “맛이 없는 맛”, which loosely translates to “the flavor of having no flavor.” This means that the garnishes used vary greatly. King Gojong, whom the first recipe was written for, had a sweet tooth and liked Korean pears in his naengmyeon. In the 50s and 60s, shotted halibut was a common garnish.
What I found most interesting was the rise of naengmyeon’s popularity during the 1930s, before the Korean war. As shown in the photo below, delivery men would transport over 20 bowls of naengmyeon on bike, holding the bowls in one hand and riding the bike with the other. The other photo shows a naengmyeon restaurant, with a sign that says that “Once spring arrives, naengmyeon season begins”. The noodles are usually made from Buckwheat, which is harvested in the fall and stored throughout the winter to be later made into flour. This meant that April and May were the peak times to make naengmyeon. This was also the same decade where the use of MSG became approved. Refrigeration was a common issue then, and food poisoning was common in the summertime. But adding MSG to the brother meant using less heat to boil it, and therefore cost less. Another fun fact is that in tradition, the noodles wouldn’t be cut, as uncut noodles symbolized good health as well as the longevity of life.
Afterwards, it became a comfort dish for refugees and a reminder of the north and their hometowns. Even in 2018, South Korean leader Moon Jae-In and North Korean Leader Kim Jung Un enjoyed the cold noodles together at the inter-Korean summit. This shows how the dish is the heart of the country and a bridge between the divided nations. Every region has its own taste and ingredients, and the culture behind naengmyeon is unique to Korea.
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